Afghan men typically wear a long tunic over baggy trousers and often wear a vest over the tunic. Turbans, traditionally white but now of any color, are wound around the locally favored type of turban caps. Pashtuns and others who imitate them leave a couple of feet of turban cloth hanging down, while most of those in the rest of the country tuck the end in. Pashtun men customarily have their hair cut square at ear-lobe length. Other groups have their heads shaved about once a month.
In cold weather, men frequently wear a blanket over their shoulders. In winter, both men and women wear sweaters, jackets, and coats. Coats worn in rural areas are often brightly striped and quilted for warmth. Shirts, vests, and coats may be embroidered, particularly those for wear on special occasions.
The traditional textiles of Afghanistan reflect the diverse nature of the country itself. Bordered by Iran, Pakistan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikstan, this landlocked nation has long been a cultural crossroad and a political battleground. Centuries of invasions and migrations into the area have produced Afghanistan's great ethnic variety, as well as its troubled history. Today, Afghanistan is populated by approximately 26 million people that belong to over 20 different ethnic groups, each with their own language, customs, and traditions. Major groups include the Tajik, Uzbek, and Turkmen of the northern part of the country; the Hazara, who occupy the mountainous central area; and the Baluchi of southwestern Afghanistan. The Pashtun, the country's largest ethnic group, inhabit the southeastern and eastern areas. Many of these groups also occupy parts of neighboring countries.
The designs, materials, and techniques of the traditional textiles of Afghanistan display these varying ethnic and regional influences, creating a mixture of Middle Eastern and Central Asian styles that are further combined with those of the Indian subcontinent. Clothing and household furnishings feature vibrant silk and cotton fabrics, wool woven into intricate patterns, and lavish embroidery. Even utilitarian items like grain bags and animal trappings may be beautifully decorated, creating liveliness in often harsh environments.
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